Window condensation and musty air

Water pooling on window sills, fogged glass, musty smells, maybe mould spots in corners or closets.

A moisture meter pressed into water-stained basement drywall, an air-sampling pump on a tripod nearby

What it usually means

  • Too much indoor humidity for the ventilation you have — common in tighter 1980s+ homes without an HRV
  • Cold surfaces (single-pane windows, uninsulated wall corners) hitting dew point
  • Bathroom/kitchen fans that vent nowhere or never get used

What an audit measures

  • The audit checks ventilation rates against occupancy and airtightness — the actual ratio that causes condensation
  • Thermal imaging finds the cold spots where mould starts

Try first (cheap or free)

  • Run bath fans 30 minutes after showers; verify they vent outside
  • Keep indoor humidity between 30% and 50%, toward the low end in very cold weather to limit window condensation (a $15–$25 hygrometer tells you)
  • Don't buy windows to fix a ventilation problem

The fix ladder

  1. Fix/duct existing exhaust fans $
  2. Add an HRV (typically $3,000–$5,500 installed) $$
  3. Insulate the cold surfaces (walls/corners) if imaging shows them $$$

$ = under ~$1k · $$ = $1k–$5k · $$$ = $5k+ · $$$$ = $15k+

Rebates that apply

  • HRSP (with assessment) — Up to $10,000 per home ($5,000 if heated with Enbridge gas), including $600 back on your two assessments, for insulation, windows, air sealing and more — if the follow-up assessment is done by December 31, 2026

Want it diagnosed properly?

A registered energy advisor measures instead of guessing — blower door, thermal imaging, and a written upgrade report priced against rebates.